Lest You Think Gekko 100 Can't Make Sharp Images

Recently, I've posted a few images made on the expired Gekko 100 black and white film that my friend Dennis Gallus sent to me. Some of them are less than tack sharp (see yesterday), but that's due to me, not the film. Here's an example of what the film can produce:

 

Tones and Sharpness, by Reed A. George

Leica CL, Rokkor 40mm f2 Lens, Gekko 100 Film

Developed in D-76 for 7 Minutes

 

Just to show what it can do.

 

DMC-365.blogspot.com

 

 

Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX7 - Jpeg Settings

I have only spent a little time with the LX7 so far. I started off by shooting some Jpegs. You have lots of image options in Jpeg shooting with the LX7, under "Photo Style." I started with STD, with default settings (for contrast, sharpness, color, and noise reduction). I have to admit I was not very pleased with the look of the jpegs at these settings. So, I had an assignment - see how to optimize Jpeg settings, if indeed it's possible to get what I want.

 

Just so you know, the raw images look pretty good to me. In the past, with my DMC-LX2 and DMC-LX5, I always shot raw. I may end up in the same situation with the LX7, but let's see what contributes most to my disappointment with the default images.

 

I decided to shoot a set of images on a tripod, using iso 400, f5.6, 1/60 second (manual exposure), and manual focus. I wanted to minimize all of the other variables, so that I could focus on Jpeg processing. I also shot both STD (color) and MONO (black and white) jpegs, since I'm interesting in optimizing both.

 

Here's the scene I shot:

 

Overall Scene, by Reed A. George

Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX7

iso 400, f5.6, 1/60 sec.

 

The tight crop below shows close up what I saw with the default STD jpeg settings:

 

Crop - STD, Default Settings

 

You can see some processing artifacts, especially along the edges of the lamp shade at right, and in the shaded area of the wall, directly under the leaves.

 

Based on my experience, these artifacts could be due to one or a combination of the following variables:

1. Jpeg compression algorithm
2. Oversharpening
3. Excessive noise reduction (NR)

I was hoping that it wasn't number 1; there's nothing you can do about that as a user. So, I tested Sharpness and NR, independently and in combination. First, I turned down Sharpness to the minimum (-2).

 

Crop - STD Photo Style, Sharpness -2, Default NR

 

In this, I see a distinct drop in the artifacts, and the expected reduction in sharpness. Much better. I can always sharpen in Lightroom.

 

Next, I brought sharpening back to default level, and reduced NR to the minimum (-2):

 

Crop, Default Sharpness, NR -2

 

The artifacts are back. Looks like Sharpness is the key adjustment.

 

Just for kicks, I combined minimum settings for both Sharpness and NR:

Crop, Sharpness -2, NR -2

 

 

The artifacts again disappear, but I don't think NR had much to do with it. Default Sharpness level in the LX7 creates Jpeg artifacts to a level that I find unacceptable.

 

Now let's look at the same series in black and white.

Crop - MONO, Default Settings

 

In black and white, I think the artifacts show up worse than in color. Look at the right edge of the moulding at the edge of the window.

 

The next one was shot with Sharpness set to -2:

 

Crop, Sharpness -2, Default NR

 

Much better.

 

For completeness, let's see what default Sharpness and minimized NR do:

 

Crop, Default Sharpness, NR -2

 

Artifacts back. Again, Sharpness is the setting that affects Jpeg artifacts.

 

Finally, minimizing both Sharpness and NR yields this:

 

Crop, Sharpness -2, NR -2

 

Again, the artifacts disappear, but in my opinion that's mostly due to minimizing Sharpness. NR doesn't seem to generate many artifacts.

 

So, what does this tell me? It tells me that I can drastically improve Jpeg from the default settings by reducing Sharpening. Now that I know that, I can decide whether to reduce it to -1 or -2.

 

I'm happy that I can adjust Sharpening to affect Jpeg processing. I'm also happy that it's not a combination effect, which is harder to control.

 

One more thing - I love the iAuto option on the LX series cameras. It allows you to quickly switch from any setting and let the camera make all the decisions. Let's say that you're shooting Jpeg street scenes with manual focus in black and white at iso 400. Just then, you see a person approaching with a gorgeous bouquet of red roses. Rather than trying to work through menus to get back to shooting color, you can switch the top dial to iA and shoot away. Very handy. Unfortunately, I cannot adjust sharpening in iAuto. So, that will seriously limit my use of iAuto with the LX7.

 

Lots more to come on the LX7. So far, so good.

 

DMC-365.blogspot.com

Foreground Items Out of Focus - Is It Acceptable?

One of the the oft-repeated recommendations for newcomers to photography is "learn all of the rules, and then forget them." I don't know who said this first, but it gets repeated in just about every photography workshop; it has become a cliche' statement. That said, I think it's true, especially as it relates to composition.

In the image below, which I took at Great Falls, Virginia on an extremely cold day (I think it was about 12 degrees F), the rocks at the very bottom, in the foreground, are a little out of focus. When I posted this shot, which I personally love, that came back as a criticism. It got me thinking.

Great Falls, Virginia, by Reed A. George

Rolleiflex Twin Lens Reflex Camera

We all take pictures where the background is out of focus, which helps to emphasize our subject, typically a person, as in a portrait. So why do some people think it's not okay to have a blurred foreground? I haven't found an answer. Personally, I think it helps to focus attention elsewhere in the image, just as a blurred background does.

Image Source: http://mute.rigent.com/index.php?ladat=2012-12-14

 

The image above uses the same effect. I find it very attractive.

 

(Click Here) to read the original post on MUTE, and the comments. Most people seem to agree that it's a great shot.

 

Anyone out there have an opinion to share about this?

 

DMC-365.blogspot.com

 

I haven't read this book, but maybe I should...

 

 

 

Olympus OM-D and Lumix 45-200mm Zoom - Nice Horseback Pictures by caimi on mu-43.com

 

Image Source: http://www.mu-43.com/f57/hunter-derby-11-11-12-a-36240/

Olympus OM-D, Panasonic Lumix 45-200mm f4-5.6 Lens

 
Member caimi posted several very nice pictures from a horseback riding event, all shot with the Olympus OM-D and Panasonic 45-200mm f4-5.6 lens.
 
(Click Here) to see the full post on mu-43.com
 
I bought the Lumix 45-200 with my first Micro 4/3 camera, the DMC-G1. It is an awesome lens - very compact, fast, and sharp. I sold it when I moved to the 14-140mm f4-5.8 and the 100-300mm f4-5.6. I believe the 45-200 is sharper than the 14-140. The 100-300 is so good, I can't say either one is better in the range where they overlap.
 

Ducking Parade, by Reed A. George

Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1, Lumix 45-200mm f4-5.6 Lens

iso 400, f6.3, 1/640 sec.

 
 
 

Goldfinch, by Reed A. George

Panasonic Lumix DMC-G1, Lumix 45-200mm f4-5.6 Lens

iso 400, f5.6, 1/500 sec.

Nothing wrong with the 45-200, even though it was one of the first Lumix Micro 4/3 lenses.

DMC-365.blogspot.com