DMC-365 focuses on creative photography equipment, techniques, and approaches. I believe that equipment is part of the creative process. I use Leica, Panasonic Lumix, Nikon and other cameras, both digital and film. On DMC-365, you can expect to see a lot of my own work, as well as work by others that I find interesting. I share methods, equipment developments, and creative approaches to photography.
Friday, February 27, 2015
Leica M9 - Still Something Special About It
Friday, October 24, 2014
Some Tips for Taking Great Images in the Studio
- Music can help to calm down a tense atmosphere. I use this one every time when I'm shooting musicians. I have not tried bringing recorded music to the session, though. Since my subjects are musicians, and typically want to be photographed with their instruments anyway, I always ask them to play. I get a private concert, and they get to do what they love. Another added benefit is that it brings out the performer in the person; they're not used to being in a photo studio, but they are used to playing in front of people, and even in front of cameras.
- A tip that Sarah shares is asking the subject to blink ten times. I like this idea very much, as it will give a better catchlight in the eyes if they're wet, and I bet it reduces blinking during exposures.
- Ask them to wear neutral clothing. The pictures are about them, not their clothes.
- Sarah mentions that most great images come at the end of a session. I've definitely found this to be true. I think it's when the pressure is off, and everyone is pretty sure you've got some good images, that both the photographer and subject relax. This relaxation shows in the pictures.
- Get feedback during the session. This is a mixed bag, in my opinion. First, showing them tiny images on the camera LCD generally won't work. Connecting to a larger display requires some technical ability; if you have it, great. If not, don't fiddle with wires, cards, and gear while the studio clock is ticking.
- Get them to talk. Yes! Except, as mentioned above, I generally get them to sing. This is easy with most musicians.
- Work fast. Agreed. While I try to work fast, sometimes I rush myself too much, and don't go deep enough with the subject. In other cases, what should be a one hour session easily goes into the second hour, probably too long from the point of view of the person being photographed. So, for me, the challenge is to balance between rushing too much and taking too long.
- Another practical tip - have them point their legs toward the main light source, and twist their upper body to face the camera.
Friday, October 17, 2014
Studio Shoot with Musician Danny Knicely
Wednesday, June 4, 2014
Visual Poetry - Audubon Park, New Orleans
Wednesday, January 8, 2014
DIYPhotography Shows Great Photo Setups With Granite Tile
Saturday, December 28, 2013
Too Much Emphasis on Low Light? Look for Good Light
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
This Might Be A Fun Little Gadget - The Kick by Photojojo
- Color balance via the app (2,500 - 10,000 K)
- Intensity control
- Tripod mount
- Rechargeable Li ion battery (charge with USB)
- Ability to sample light and mimic color balance with the LEDs
Saturday, March 9, 2013
Skeletons From The Closet - February Results - Super Ricohflex in Dramatic Light
Super Ricohflex Twin Lens Reflex, Kodak Tmax 400 Film
Friday, February 22, 2013
Sometimes the Light Just Happens - Strong Directional Lighting Portrait With Leica M9
I think this type of light can also be a little mysterious and moody. That was my goal for the shot below. Converting the image to black and white makes it a little less warm. I suppose I could've taken that further with some cooler toning of the monochrome image, but I kind of like it like this:
Thursday, January 17, 2013
Breathtaking Photos of Switzerland
Friday, December 7, 2012
Those Blasted Pop-Up Flashes
Anyone who's used one knows the limitations of those little pop-up flashes that are built into your cameras. Nearly every photography seminar I've attended tells you to leave them down, rip them off, whatever, don't use them. On a few exceptions, I've been told to use them the opposite of your first thought: turn them off inside or in low light, use them outside or in bright light for fill-in flash.
Those little flashes have a few major problems. First, they're small. That means they have low light output, and are only good close up to your subject, if you're relying on them as the main light in picture. Second, they are built-in. That means that they're optimally placed to give you "red eyes" in your subject, as the light coming from the flash reflects directly back into your lens. Finally, they give very harsh light. This is a result of them being very small sources (nearly point sources) of light, and being directly aimed at the subject. They can really make a nice-looking person ugly.
So, what are they good for? If you can dial down the intensity, they're fine for fill-in flash in otherwise good lighting. For example, if you're taking outdoor pictures in strong midday light, that little flash can fill in those deep black shadows under your subject's eyes, and provide a little catch-light at the same time.
They can also be used to trigger other flashes wirelessly.
nonnit on mu-43.com demonstrated both in his recent post of images shot with a Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF3.
(Click Here) to see nonnit's post on mu-43.com
So, don't literally rip that little flash off of your camera; just use it very carefully.
DMC-365.blogspot.com
Friday, October 19, 2012
Todd Owyoung On Backlighting Musicians
(Click Here) to see a very nice post on Todd's site (ishootshows.com) regarding backlighting.
I have been working on photographing local musicians and shows for quite a while now. I feel that I've made real progress in a few areas. First, I've gotten more comfortable interacting with the musicians. I've also improved my compositional skills, and the technical details of shooting a brightly lit stage in a dark room, or a dimly lit show under a canopy at a farmer's market. Hey, it's not all glitz and bright lights, you know. I have also improved my ability to capture those micro moments of emotion that show who the band members are.
However, when I quickly scan through my music images, one thing is clearly missing - dramatic light. There are a few venues (including the one I'm going to tonight, Franklin Park in Purcellville, VA) that offer great stage lighting. Most others around here don't. And beyond that, how am I using light in the off-stage work? I'm using "available light," which is "any damn light that's available" in a quote attributed to the master photographer W. Eugene Smith. I'm not using every lever I have to adjust and improve the quality of my shots.
I use flash reasonably often when shooting stage acts. I rarely use it when the band is off-stage. It just seems so intrusive. I need to get over that. I'm already intruding, either peeking around a corner with my lens, or asking them to stand a little closer. So, a flash or two won't hurt anything.
In his article, Todd states that carrying two speedlights (hotshoe-based strobes) is plenty for great opportunities to backlight and frontlight a band or musician. I had one Nikon SB800 already in my bag for tonight. Guess what else is going in? A second flash.
Todd also talks about how some venues backlight the performers on the stage, which we can use. Again, looking through my images, dramatic lighting is not what catches your eye. Here's one example of a nice side light on Tmony Griffin of Jake and the Burtones.
I'm sure that the strong side lighting caught my eye when I took this image. But, not consciously. I need to keep directional lighting more in mind as I compose my images. And, I need to control and add to it where possible.
I think I'd better pick up some AA batteries this afternoon...
DMC-365.blogspot.com
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
From the Zeiss Lens Blog - Photographer David Zimand Talks Portraits
The Zeiss Lens Blog has posted an interview with portrait and people photographer David Zimand.
(Click Here) to read the story and see several of David's gorgeous black and white portraits.
(Click Here) to go to David's site.
Also, google David's name to see tons of great images.
David shares several important thoughts about how he approaches people photography. First off, he loves people. That's important, and shows through in his work.
He especially seeks out people with "bright eyes." Then he accentuates their eyes, or other distinguishing features, including with the use of ring lights. You'll see the characteristic profile of a round ring light in the eyes of many of David's subjects. Some people find this troublesome. I think it is defintiely "in your face," and not subtle at all. However, it does make for dramatic eyes. Along those lines, David also prefers to shoot his subjects looking into the lens.
David shoots about 80% black and white. He feels that it gives him better control, and allows him to produce the richness in tone that he prefers.
In terms of suggestions for developing photographers, David's advice sounds like many others - try many different approaches to develop your style, step out of the comfort zone.
I find this kind of advice vaguely motivating, helping me to go a little further. However, it is generic, a little abstract. I think it's the kind of advice that makes more sense once you've experienced its use in your own way. It's sort of like saying - "Work on projects, with subjects you love." Well, sometimes we don't know what we love most until we've spent time and effort trying to photograph it.
DMC-365.blogspot.com
Thursday, August 9, 2012
Damsels - Not in Distress - Pentax M42 Macro on Lumix DMC-GH2
Poster GShooter on mu-43.com posted two awesome images of damselfiles, made with a Pentax screwmount 100mm macro lens. This is right up my alley. The subject, the equipment, the execution are all great!
(Click Here) to see the original post and comments. GShooter followed up with links to high resolution images.
I bet no one at Asahi Optical ever dreamed how that sweet little macro lens would end up being used...
DMC-365.blogspot.com
Friday, May 18, 2012
Nice Post on Natural Light from Digital Photography School
- Be aware of the characteristics of light. Learn to think about how that scene you're observing now would look at a different time of day (or night). The differences can be dramatic.
- There is no "good" or "bad" light. Yes, the golden hour is great for beautiful images. Sometimes, you want to communicate something other than just "beautiful." Sometimes the harsh light of mid-day is exactly right for communicating your story.
- Obsess about observing light. Even when you don't have a camera. Look at contrast, how the shadows are illuminated. I find it useful to think about how many stops difference I think there are between the shadows and highlights, and about how I would expose an image, if I were taking it.
- Give it a try, experiment. To me, this point follows on the one above. Why ever be without a camera? If you see it, shoot it. It's digital, right? You can simply delete it later, with no cost, and with the potential of learning something.
- Don't forget that you can post-process. Learn to shoot challenging scenes with a plan in mind for post-processing. Want to capture that person's face, but also want the sky correctly exposed? See if you can capture the sky and bring the face exposure up a little in post-processing.
(Click Here) to read the whole article on digital-photography-school.com.
DMC-365.blogspot.com
Wednesday, May 16, 2012
Civil War Event - John Mosby's Rangers at Mount Bleak, Virginia
DMC-365.blogspot.com
Sunday, April 29, 2012
The Stove Eye Lifters Rock the Barns at Rose Hill in Berryville, Virginia
By the way:
(Click Here) to get info on Acoustic Burgoo's new album, "Word." Support this local band, get a great CD in the process! I bought my copy yesterday.
The Stove Eye Lifters, by Reed A. George
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G3, Lumix 14mm f2.5
iso1600, f2.8, 1/30 sec
Nissin Di466 flash, manual fill setting
The show opened with an acoustic mandolin and guitar set by the Spruce Brothers, Marty and Stuart, who work together at Fairbuilt Guitars in Neersville, Virginia. In addition to being wonderful musicians, these guys build some beautiful stringed instruments! The highlight of their set (for me) was “Pastures of Plenty,” by Arlo Guthrie.
The Spruce Brothers, by Reed A. George
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G3, Pana-Leica 45mm f2.8 Macro-Elmarit
iso1600, f2.8, 1/30 sec
Nissin Di466 flash, manual fill setting
The Stove Eye Lifters played a wide range of tunes, most memorable for me being “Maybellene” by Chuck Berry, “Wake Up Little Susie,” “Don’t Come Home Drinkin’” by Loretta Lynn, and the topper for this child of the sixties through eighties was “Honky Tonk Women” by the Rolling Stones!
iso1600, f2.8, 1/30 sec
Nissin Di466 flash, manual fill setting
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G3, Pana-Leica 45mm f2.8 Macro-Elmarit
iso1600, f2.8, 1/30 sec
Nissin Di466 flash, manual fill setting
iso1600, f2.8, 1/30 sec
Nissin Di466 flash, manual fill setting
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G3, Pana-Leica Summilux 25mm f1.4
iso1600, f2, 1/30 sec
Nissin Di466 flash, manual fill setting
Keep your (stove) eyes open for this band. See ‘em if you get the chance!
Thanks to Cheryl Ash and The Barns at Rose Hill for another great show.
Shades on the Piano, by Reed A. George
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G3, Lumix 14mm f2.5
iso1600, f2.5, 1/30 sec
Now for some photography-related notes. I have written before about the challenges of photographing in venues with the new style high intensity LED lights. The Barns at Rose Hill has them as their main lighting source. LED lights emit a very narrow wavelength of light, which plays hell with my cameras' white balance. I have tried many white balance settings, to no avail. The first tip for shooting in LED light is ALWAYS shoot raw images. You will definitely want to adjust them later.
You can see in the image of the Spruce Brothers the effect of mixed tungsten and LED lighting. It's not too bad, and gives a pretty reasonable mix of colors. When the Lifters came on stage, Dwayne asked for the house lights to be turned off - he wanted it real dark. I have figured out that shooting at iso1600, f2.8 (or thereabouts), 1/30 sec, with fill-flash (manually controlled, which is impossible with the G3's built-in flash, but easy with the Nissin Di466 add-on flash) does a pretty good job of compensating and filling in some of the other wavelengths of light. I hope this is helpful to others faced with this significant lighting challenge.






